11.24.2008

Surf Report

November 23, 2008, 10:00AM - Malibu, CA

Ryan introduced us to Malibu beach today. The man is a machine. If Ryan caught waves for a living he'd be eating steak everyday.

Kevboy had a monster day too and is definitely pushing to go down the line. Kev's been setting up his paddling at a an angle to ride down the line. He almost pulled through today.

I had a very slow start.

November 22, 2008, 6:30AM - Doc Wieler, CA

A day of shameful arse beating. The ocean pimped slapped me twice:

Mother Ocean: "Where's my money?"
Me: "What money?"
Mother Ocean: "What!" *Shapes salt water into 1 - 3 foot backhand*
Me: "This is going to hurt...*smack*....glug glug glug".

I went back home in 15 minutes.

November 15, 2008, 7:00AM - Bolsa Chica, CA

Kevin and Ryan were showing off their fearlessness during high tide and walled out waves

November 11, 2008, 10:30AM - Seal Beach, CA

Paddling straight with Juan. J came with.

September 5, 2008, 8:00AM - El Porto, CA

2 faces straight down. J came to share in the welcome back to the ocean.

10.09.2008

Nice Ears

Ears are clearing up fine now. I still get the "tearing paper" sensation when i pop my ears - my worry is that when I drive to Vegas this weekend the elevation change is going to do me in again.

On the brighter note, I can't wait to get back into the water and off the video games. My lack of movement is encouraging muscle atrophy (not that I had any significant muscles or anything). I will be pretty bummed if the progress I made in paddling goes backwards.

The new nephew Luke, is holding up well. The little guy, unlike his older brother Ryan, doesn't cry very much.

10.02.2008

Did not make it by Thursday

Still have a nasty cold and sore ear today. Looks like I am officially off the surf roster for this weekend. It will be 1 month since I last touched water. I got a new issue of Surfer Magazine in so I should be able to hold out until next week.

I get to take my 4 year old nephew (maybe Dawson too) to Toy's R Us. The 4 year old little man can read! Life is good when I am around the nephews.

10.01.2008

I'm walking here!

I came back from my vacation with a nasty cold and an ear infection. I have to stay out of the water until it clears up. I will wait to see how I feel on Thursday before I decide if I am going to surf on Friday (it's going to rain my first weekend back - bastards).

Bigger news (didn't mean to post it second). I got engaged on September 16 in Saint Patrick's Cathedral in New York, New York.

A monumental day, we sat next to St. John Baptist de la Salle the patron saint for cathechists and teachers. Screw it, bring on the yams.

I came back from my vacation, sitting on my donut, thinking,

"What the hell am I doing here?"

New York, I love you.

9.10.2008

Vacation

Our two week vacation draws near. I am already missing the surf.

I ask myself everyday how am I going to get sponsored to cover my expenses. I have no clucking clue.

9.08.2008

Surf Report

September 5, 2008, 3:00PM - Bolsa, CA

September 6, 2008, 10:00AM - Bolsa, CA

September 7, 2008, 6:30AM - Seal, CA

Changing Tides

Eric recommended me to watch the Ultimate Gift and Bucket List. If you know Eric then you're probably thinking the same thing as me.

The movies were great.

I had no idea the this weekend would mend my friendships. Now we rebuild.