Surf Report

September 2, 2008, 6:00PM - El Porto, CA

Still trying to pick up the paddling trick. I read that Mr. Slater suggest to count to 10 then hang 10, meaning, "Paddle 10 times before the wave approaches you". I want to try that out.

This day was an easy low tide day. Eric, Kev and I had a handful of nose dives. You know what that's a good thing, because we have the guts to go back even after going under.

I am starting to make paddling longer before popping up a habit. I was able to paddle and pick one wave today, it's a good feeling to look left and right and know/feel that you are insync with the rolling water.

Still riding white water. I had a chance to ride a short line close to shore, it was a tiny wave. I paddled sideways (per Eric's advise) and was able to stand up on one foot for 3 seconds looking at the line. Looked great, too bad I was off balance and ate shit.

Can't wait to go again tonight.