April 6,2009 El Porto,CA
J, Kev, Ryan
Kevin and Ryan paddled out to the line fast again. I was stuck in the wash trying to get to the line. From where I was, the guys looked pro status since they were relaxing at the line.
I still am figuring out how to paddle better. I tried making mickey mouse strengthening exercises up at home. Nerd. Randy caught me on video doing it too. I will post it to embarrass myself via you tube.
Ryan and I watched Kevin take one of his waves. Kevin caught what looked like a nice 3 foot corner on his Al Merrick, not an easy feet to do boys and girls, Kevin had to master balancing his core on that slim board. Victory.
The downside is that El Porto is notorious for make waves the drop on you like an anvil, walled out (wuh oh did I just say that). Kev's sweet little corner turned into an unforgiving wall.
Ryan and I watched Kev get sucked in by the evil wave. But Kev's a brave man, he tried going off that beast.
Ryan's paddling out and surfing hard. Opening wave goes to Ryan today!
I was set up to the left and behind Ryan. From my view I could see Ryan surf on the wave from left to right. It is quite a sight to see the back side of the wave and the top of Ryan's head. Crazy man.
I kept asking Jenn to catch the opening wave and focus on Ryan. Ryan said, "Nah, no pressure".
Ryan and Kev both stuck the remainder of the day together, I was stuck in the wash and went back and forth to how J was doing.
Nothing great for me just playing in the wash again. I was able to catch wash that turned into a second wave. I couldn't cut into it though, hopefully I will learn how to this year.
Still waiting for another day at San O or a trip to Swami's
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