April 8,2009 San Onofre,CA
Han Solo and J Video
The city shutdown the power to our building all day today. We were given an unexpected free day off! Seized the day with a trip to San O!
Met Blake, a friday morning regular he showed me where the best breaks were close by. Surfing at the areas Blake pointed out made a big difference on the speed of the ride and length. The costs for that is harder to paddle out and stay standing.
I had took 2 nasty nosedives that J and the family loved to watch and make fun of.
4.09.2009
Surf Report
April 6,2009 El Porto,CA
J, Kev, Ryan
Kevin and Ryan paddled out to the line fast again. I was stuck in the wash trying to get to the line. From where I was, the guys looked pro status since they were relaxing at the line.
I still am figuring out how to paddle better. I tried making mickey mouse strengthening exercises up at home. Nerd. Randy caught me on video doing it too. I will post it to embarrass myself via you tube.
Ryan and I watched Kevin take one of his waves. Kevin caught what looked like a nice 3 foot corner on his Al Merrick, not an easy feet to do boys and girls, Kevin had to master balancing his core on that slim board. Victory.
The downside is that El Porto is notorious for make waves the drop on you like an anvil, walled out (wuh oh did I just say that). Kev's sweet little corner turned into an unforgiving wall.
Ryan and I watched Kev get sucked in by the evil wave. But Kev's a brave man, he tried going off that beast.
Ryan's paddling out and surfing hard. Opening wave goes to Ryan today!
I was set up to the left and behind Ryan. From my view I could see Ryan surf on the wave from left to right. It is quite a sight to see the back side of the wave and the top of Ryan's head. Crazy man.
I kept asking Jenn to catch the opening wave and focus on Ryan. Ryan said, "Nah, no pressure".
Ryan and Kev both stuck the remainder of the day together, I was stuck in the wash and went back and forth to how J was doing.
Nothing great for me just playing in the wash again. I was able to catch wash that turned into a second wave. I couldn't cut into it though, hopefully I will learn how to this year.
Still waiting for another day at San O or a trip to Swami's
J, Kev, Ryan
Kevin and Ryan paddled out to the line fast again. I was stuck in the wash trying to get to the line. From where I was, the guys looked pro status since they were relaxing at the line.
I still am figuring out how to paddle better. I tried making mickey mouse strengthening exercises up at home. Nerd. Randy caught me on video doing it too. I will post it to embarrass myself via you tube.
Ryan and I watched Kevin take one of his waves. Kevin caught what looked like a nice 3 foot corner on his Al Merrick, not an easy feet to do boys and girls, Kevin had to master balancing his core on that slim board. Victory.
The downside is that El Porto is notorious for make waves the drop on you like an anvil, walled out (wuh oh did I just say that). Kev's sweet little corner turned into an unforgiving wall.
Ryan and I watched Kev get sucked in by the evil wave. But Kev's a brave man, he tried going off that beast.
Ryan's paddling out and surfing hard. Opening wave goes to Ryan today!
I was set up to the left and behind Ryan. From my view I could see Ryan surf on the wave from left to right. It is quite a sight to see the back side of the wave and the top of Ryan's head. Crazy man.
I kept asking Jenn to catch the opening wave and focus on Ryan. Ryan said, "Nah, no pressure".
Ryan and Kev both stuck the remainder of the day together, I was stuck in the wash and went back and forth to how J was doing.
Nothing great for me just playing in the wash again. I was able to catch wash that turned into a second wave. I couldn't cut into it though, hopefully I will learn how to this year.
Still waiting for another day at San O or a trip to Swami's
4.05.2009
Surf Report
April 4,2009 Bolsa Chica,CA
Randoi, Mikey
Randoi brought out his boogie board again. He paddled out with his grey fins and was able to pick out a nice wave going to the right. Randoi was on the face , moments ahead of the closing wave. Looked like something out of my magazines.
Mikey took out his 7" custom spyder that was given to him as a gift. The 6' beast went bareback in 55 degree water. He was going down 4 footers with no fear at all. I couldn't paddle out to see much of his action since I was again stuck trying to paddle out. Mikey ended up getting his 2 fingers cut up really bad under water. We got him patched up by the local lifeguard Jon, CSULB alumni, and decided it was best to end the day to prevent infection in Mikey's hands - but Mikey was still ready to go again. Beast.
On the way out back to Mikey's truck, Mikey was getting questions from everyone, about how we could stay in the water with just his board shorts on - the questions came from everyone including the lifeguard that said, "Man, isn't the water cold? You are brave". Mikey is a beast.
Nothing worth nothing for me again, just playing in the wash. I am having trouble paddling out, expect at San O. I will change my diet a bit and see if a boost in protein each day will help me this weekend.
My new XM leash wrapped around my neck like a noose under water today. I did a comparison of the length between the new XM leash and the old FCS leash, looks the same. Weird.
Randoi spotted a passing a sea lion. I mistook a seagull for a floating ghost.
Picked the California State Beach Annual Pass for year 2! Let us pray for a safe year.
Randoi, Mikey
Randoi brought out his boogie board again. He paddled out with his grey fins and was able to pick out a nice wave going to the right. Randoi was on the face , moments ahead of the closing wave. Looked like something out of my magazines.
Mikey took out his 7" custom spyder that was given to him as a gift. The 6' beast went bareback in 55 degree water. He was going down 4 footers with no fear at all. I couldn't paddle out to see much of his action since I was again stuck trying to paddle out. Mikey ended up getting his 2 fingers cut up really bad under water. We got him patched up by the local lifeguard Jon, CSULB alumni, and decided it was best to end the day to prevent infection in Mikey's hands - but Mikey was still ready to go again. Beast.
On the way out back to Mikey's truck, Mikey was getting questions from everyone, about how we could stay in the water with just his board shorts on - the questions came from everyone including the lifeguard that said, "Man, isn't the water cold? You are brave". Mikey is a beast.
Nothing worth nothing for me again, just playing in the wash. I am having trouble paddling out, expect at San O. I will change my diet a bit and see if a boost in protein each day will help me this weekend.
My new XM leash wrapped around my neck like a noose under water today. I did a comparison of the length between the new XM leash and the old FCS leash, looks the same. Weird.
Randoi spotted a passing a sea lion. I mistook a seagull for a floating ghost.
Picked the California State Beach Annual Pass for year 2! Let us pray for a safe year.
Surf Report
April 3,2009 - El Porto, CA
Randoi, Matteo, Nate
Took the boy and J with us. The boy made sand castles and J took video of us in choppy waves.
Too choppy for us to paddle out anywhere. A guy next to me shared in the struggle of paddling out:
"Pretty shitty day huh?"
I replied, "Yeah, I can't even stay standing in the shallow end"
"Yeah, classic Porto"
As the lifeguard at the bar told Kev last year, "Get out of Porto".
And we did. We ended up digging a 4 foot hole for the boy. The guys decided it would be funny to put me in the hole and bury me. We got that on video. No surf, but still fun.
Randoi, Matteo, Nate
Took the boy and J with us. The boy made sand castles and J took video of us in choppy waves.
Too choppy for us to paddle out anywhere. A guy next to me shared in the struggle of paddling out:
"Pretty shitty day huh?"
I replied, "Yeah, I can't even stay standing in the shallow end"
"Yeah, classic Porto"
As the lifeguard at the bar told Kev last year, "Get out of Porto".
And we did. We ended up digging a 4 foot hole for the boy. The guys decided it would be funny to put me in the hole and bury me. We got that on video. No surf, but still fun.
3.30.2009
Surf Repot - Graduation Day
March 28,2009 San Onofre
Jon and Ryan
Today marked the biggest day of the week on my Google Calendar, the culmination of 1 and half years of surf.
Our 1st California State Beach Annual Pass expired this weekend.
And on this special occasion the motley crew decided to showcase our growth over the years at the Big San O, California's own Waikiki.
Photo Credit to Jon Aye.
http://jonatangan.livejournal.com/
P.S. Ladies you may admire my tiny peter of a camel toe on his blog.
Jon and Ryan
Today marked the biggest day of the week on my Google Calendar, the culmination of 1 and half years of surf.
Our 1st California State Beach Annual Pass expired this weekend.
And on this special occasion the motley crew decided to showcase our growth over the years at the Big San O, California's own Waikiki.
Photo Credit to Jon Aye.http://jonatangan.livejournal.com/
P.S. Ladies you may admire my tiny peter of a camel toe on his blog.
My anticipation had me up at 5AM today for the 6:45AM pickup. Jon realized my excitement and had me drive to his house.
Ryan arrived at 7AM. The crew worked quickly on getting boards stacked up on the runner. Jon had some serious navy tactical “S shaped” knots on the boards.
We headed out for our big day, exchanging eager conversations and stories. A complete rosary provided much needed comfort and confidence on the way up.
The wind passing thru the board bags made the uninvited whistling noise, this ghostly sound more irritating than the ear straining open-window helicopter. What is worse is that the sound from the wind causes the passengers to worry about foam torpedoes shooting from our humvee.
Jon peered his head out to view the boards, ala Iraqi Humvee Recon Team – all he need was a rifle around his shoulder as he stuck out half his body thru the window to view the boards.
“They shifted, pull over”. 10 Minute delay on the clock as the crew switched out tie downs and secured the torpedoes above.
Ryan arrived at 7AM. The crew worked quickly on getting boards stacked up on the runner. Jon had some serious navy tactical “S shaped” knots on the boards.
We headed out for our big day, exchanging eager conversations and stories. A complete rosary provided much needed comfort and confidence on the way up.
The wind passing thru the board bags made the uninvited whistling noise, this ghostly sound more irritating than the ear straining open-window helicopter. What is worse is that the sound from the wind causes the passengers to worry about foam torpedoes shooting from our humvee.
Jon peered his head out to view the boards, ala Iraqi Humvee Recon Team – all he need was a rifle around his shoulder as he stuck out half his body thru the window to view the boards.
“They shifted, pull over”. 10 Minute delay on the clock as the crew switched out tie downs and secured the torpedoes above.
A few more laughs on the 5S and we found that we had arrived.
Long lines and slow rolling waves. "So this is Waikiki", I said to myself.
I forgot to replace my leash before the big day.
Bone head solution, "Oh I know, I'll just tie the lesh in a knot around my ankle". Not true.
Jon and Ryan were out to the line in a dash.
Jon's getting waves in on his second day. His big concern is getting the paddling down, and paddle he did. We went out to Hermosa to get his board repaired and he said his back and arms were sore.
Why, well because of the picture below:
The 3 of us were in between 2 swells. Never in the middle of the line. It was way to crowded in those spots. So we hung out at the end and paddled around until our golden ticket came.
Honestly, I was scared to have no leash. When I finally got the guts to paddle to the line, I said to myself, "It's going to be worth it". Wrong again.
Jon and Ryan were beside me when I decided to paddle to the line, I am certain they saw the next event:
1. Wait at line
2. Line up with wave
3. Nose dive
4. Pop up and laugh at myself
5. Realize no one else is laughing
6. Paddle back to friends and admit defeat
7. Say to self, "Welcome to San O B*tch"
8. Sit around a bit, paddle away from everyone, and hope everyone forgets what happened.
Opening wave goes out to Ryan again. He caught a clean wave, with no corner this time, drop from the top! Ryan put out the cleanest pop up I have ever seen this pass year, turning the board left onto the face of the wave. Ryan's on the face now a days, this was following up his opening wave at El Porto earlier this week. I was next to him (on the left, sorry about that) when it happened and sure I yelled out in excitement.
Long lines and slow rolling waves. "So this is Waikiki", I said to myself.
I forgot to replace my leash before the big day.
Bone head solution, "Oh I know, I'll just tie the lesh in a knot around my ankle". Not true.
Jon and Ryan were out to the line in a dash.
Jon's getting waves in on his second day. His big concern is getting the paddling down, and paddle he did. We went out to Hermosa to get his board repaired and he said his back and arms were sore.
Why, well because of the picture below:
The 3 of us were in between 2 swells. Never in the middle of the line. It was way to crowded in those spots. So we hung out at the end and paddled around until our golden ticket came.
Honestly, I was scared to have no leash. When I finally got the guts to paddle to the line, I said to myself, "It's going to be worth it". Wrong again.
Jon and Ryan were beside me when I decided to paddle to the line, I am certain they saw the next event:
1. Wait at line
2. Line up with wave
3. Nose dive
4. Pop up and laugh at myself
5. Realize no one else is laughing
6. Paddle back to friends and admit defeat
7. Say to self, "Welcome to San O B*tch"
8. Sit around a bit, paddle away from everyone, and hope everyone forgets what happened.
Opening wave goes out to Ryan again. He caught a clean wave, with no corner this time, drop from the top! Ryan put out the cleanest pop up I have ever seen this pass year, turning the board left onto the face of the wave. Ryan's on the face now a days, this was following up his opening wave at El Porto earlier this week. I was next to him (on the left, sorry about that) when it happened and sure I yelled out in excitement.
3.27.2009
Surf Report
March 26,2009 El Porto
Kev
Nice clean lines today, unfortunately paddling out to the line required strength and persistence.
We brought standard squishy ear plugs today that loosened up as the got wet. I ended up taking my plugs out 10 minutes in the water for fear of having them torpedo into my ear.
Kevin was out quick to the line today. I lost sight of him quickly because he was paddling in so fast. I had a feeling Kevin was focused on catching waves on his short board today. Those feelings were true. I found Kevin towards the end of our session, and asked if he caught some. He said, “Yep”. I have a feeling he caught a lot more than he told me.
Kev’s been thinking a lot more about his paddling, he’s figured that on his short board to focus on his chest and avoid using certain arm muscle than feel straining. Looks like Kev’s disciplining himself. Adjust, Correct, Adjust, Cool.
As for yours truly, I had a life guard watch me eat it in a rip tide. I blame it on myself for not having the strength and stamina to paddle to the line.
Yep, I never made it to the line today.
Kev
Nice clean lines today, unfortunately paddling out to the line required strength and persistence.
We brought standard squishy ear plugs today that loosened up as the got wet. I ended up taking my plugs out 10 minutes in the water for fear of having them torpedo into my ear.
Kevin was out quick to the line today. I lost sight of him quickly because he was paddling in so fast. I had a feeling Kevin was focused on catching waves on his short board today. Those feelings were true. I found Kevin towards the end of our session, and asked if he caught some. He said, “Yep”. I have a feeling he caught a lot more than he told me.
Kev’s been thinking a lot more about his paddling, he’s figured that on his short board to focus on his chest and avoid using certain arm muscle than feel straining. Looks like Kev’s disciplining himself. Adjust, Correct, Adjust, Cool.
As for yours truly, I had a life guard watch me eat it in a rip tide. I blame it on myself for not having the strength and stamina to paddle to the line.
Yep, I never made it to the line today.
3.25.2009
THE BIG SAN O
Possible San Onofre trip this Saturday.
I am definitely picking up a new set of ear plugs for this one.
I wonder if I can get J to come with and bring a camera......
I am definitely picking up a new set of ear plugs for this one.
I wonder if I can get J to come with and bring a camera......
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