Our two week vacation draws near.
9.10.2008
Vacation
9.08.2008
Surf Report
September 5, 2008, 3:00PM - Bolsa, CA
September 6, 2008, 10:00AM - Bolsa, CA
September 7, 2008, 6:30AM - Seal, CA
September 6, 2008, 10:00AM - Bolsa, CA
September 7, 2008, 6:30AM - Seal, CA
Changing Tides
Eric recommended me to watch the Ultimate Gift and Bucket List. If you know Eric then you're probably thinking the same thing as me.
The movies were great.
I had no idea the this weekend would mend my friendships. Now we rebuild.
The movies were great.
I had no idea the this weekend would mend my friendships. Now we rebuild.
9.04.2008
Surf Report
September 3, 2008, 6:00PM - El Porto, CA
Han Solo and much of the same today. More nose dives then stands. I tried using the 10 paddling tip today, no give. My paddling was weak today, my left arm cramped up and I felt like I was swinging a noodle.
I saw my neighbor Carlos today.
Carlos (Waves hands): Hey! How were the waves?
Me: Pretty bad, heh, I did even worse.
Carlos: You surf during shark feeding time.
Me: Yeah, I read that. I need to pick better days and times. I still keep eating sh*t.
Carlos: That's the only way to learn it.
Me: (smiling) Yeah, I know. I need to go the Chart House
Carlos: We're there all the time, I was out there surfing on Monday from 1PM to 6PM. The water was chest high.
Me: I need to go out during that time, lot better surf.
Carlos: Hey you know what, who's your cell phone provider?
Me: Verizon
Carlos: Hey,*7873. Use *7873 to get free surfline surf reports. It's part of your plan. You dial in and punch in your area code and it's all there. You get all of the reports in the south bay.
Me: Whoa, thank you. I had no idea. Hey, I've been meaning to go to the Chart House, but I don't want to waste your time.
Carlos: Don't worry about that.
Me: Cool
Han Solo and much of the same today. More nose dives then stands. I tried using the 10 paddling tip today, no give. My paddling was weak today, my left arm cramped up and I felt like I was swinging a noodle.
I saw my neighbor Carlos today.
Carlos (Waves hands): Hey! How were the waves?
Me: Pretty bad, heh, I did even worse.
Carlos: You surf during shark feeding time.
Me: Yeah, I read that. I need to pick better days and times. I still keep eating sh*t.
Carlos: That's the only way to learn it.
Me: (smiling) Yeah, I know. I need to go the Chart House
Carlos: We're there all the time, I was out there surfing on Monday from 1PM to 6PM. The water was chest high.
Me: I need to go out during that time, lot better surf.
Carlos: Hey you know what, who's your cell phone provider?
Me: Verizon
Carlos: Hey,*7873. Use *7873 to get free surfline surf reports. It's part of your plan. You dial in and punch in your area code and it's all there. You get all of the reports in the south bay.
Me: Whoa, thank you. I had no idea. Hey, I've been meaning to go to the Chart House, but I don't want to waste your time.
Carlos: Don't worry about that.
Me: Cool
9.03.2008
Surf Report
September 2, 2008, 6:00PM - El Porto, CA
Still trying to pick up the paddling trick. I read that Mr. Slater suggest to count to 10 then hang 10, meaning, "Paddle 10 times before the wave approaches you". I want to try that out.
This day was an easy low tide day. Eric, Kev and I had a handful of nose dives. You know what that's a good thing, because we have the guts to go back even after going under.
I am starting to make paddling longer before popping up a habit. I was able to paddle and pick one wave today, it's a good feeling to look left and right and know/feel that you are insync with the rolling water.
Still riding white water. I had a chance to ride a short line close to shore, it was a tiny wave. I paddled sideways (per Eric's advise) and was able to stand up on one foot for 3 seconds looking at the line. Looked great, too bad I was off balance and ate shit.
Can't wait to go again tonight.
Still trying to pick up the paddling trick. I read that Mr. Slater suggest to count to 10 then hang 10, meaning, "Paddle 10 times before the wave approaches you". I want to try that out.
This day was an easy low tide day. Eric, Kev and I had a handful of nose dives. You know what that's a good thing, because we have the guts to go back even after going under.
I am starting to make paddling longer before popping up a habit. I was able to paddle and pick one wave today, it's a good feeling to look left and right and know/feel that you are insync with the rolling water.
Still riding white water. I had a chance to ride a short line close to shore, it was a tiny wave. I paddled sideways (per Eric's advise) and was able to stand up on one foot for 3 seconds looking at the line. Looked great, too bad I was off balance and ate shit.
Can't wait to go again tonight.
9.02.2008
Surf Report
August 29, 2008, 6:00PM - Bolsa Chica, CA
Did I surf today? I can't remember. But I do recall surfing at night with Kev in shitty conditions. We were the only 2 out there again.
Checked out Traitor with Kev.
August 30, 2008, 10:00AM - Sunset Beach, CA
I messed up my phone this past Monday and missed Jeric's call to go surf. He was waiting in HB. Shit. I will not have that happen again.
September 1, 2008, 6:00PM - Bolsa Chica, CA
I will not surf on Labor Day ever again. Too crowded. I almost hit 2 people trying to catch the same wave.
Checked out Traitor with Kev.
Did I surf today? I can't remember. But I do recall surfing at night with Kev in shitty conditions. We were the only 2 out there again.
Checked out Traitor with Kev.
August 30, 2008, 10:00AM - Sunset Beach, CA
I messed up my phone this past Monday and missed Jeric's call to go surf. He was waiting in HB. Shit. I will not have that happen again.
September 1, 2008, 6:00PM - Bolsa Chica, CA
I will not surf on Labor Day ever again. Too crowded. I almost hit 2 people trying to catch the same wave.
Checked out Traitor with Kev.
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