April 29,2009 El Porto,CA
Ryan
Classic Porto, but better than most evenings.
Caught up with Ryan on the way to Porto. When we arrived we started out on the rip-tide side. 2 hours of non stop paddling and surf today.
Opening wave goes to Ryan. Today is officially, "Ryan's popping up like a pro on his 5 foot fish Day". I was yelling like a mad man when Ryan dropped in on the opening wave:
Ryan lined up with an oncoming wave at the peak, he paddled to match up with the wave, caught it, did a push up with his right shoulder down...
At this point I'm in awe because I knew that his shoulder dropped because he was picking when and where to go down the line.
..Ryan looks to the right, and the wave begins to break on his left, Ryan comples his push up turning the board easily to the right, and here's the best part,
Ryan's pop up was completed at the top of the face, just ahead of the breaking corner.
Yours truly, stood witness (yeah I'm still having trouble paddling out) to 4 of these pop-ups and yelled out in excitement.
The lifeguards at the beach were looking for a drowning girl because I was screaming so much.
No seriously, Ryan's upped the game and has left the curve, errr curl.
Seriously it's always good to have a motley crew out there with you to pump your day up.
Bonus: Confirmation earlier this week that Jeric's ready and Dex is looking for his new board.
I caught a few. My best drop in fell short, because when I began my turn I almost hit a friendly red bearded neighbor. We both said sorry to each other, how cute.
Ryan's tip: Make the last two strokes count. Paddle hard, then complete a push up (a.k.a the vinyasa) putting most of the weight on the side you want to turn. Eventually you'll be able to coast with the wave and pick out the side you want to drop in.
I trust that tip cause Ryan's on a 5'10" board, and even more so, I witnessed the technique first hand. Growth indeed.
Ryan and I both agree, it was a good day at Porto.
4.30.2009
Surf Repot
April 16,2009 El Porto,CA
Kev and Jon
Great surprises welcomed. Kev and I were happy to have Jon come out to surf with us today. Jon’s putting in hard hours at work. Today Jon drove to and from San Diego for work, as a thank you they let him off early for the day.
Jon sent a text message straight from a fortune cookie, “I am down for surf”.
Today’s motley crew headed out for another classic day at El Porto:
Chop, slop, and as Ryan calls it “Mush Burgers”.
As always, conditions do not matter since growing boys are hungry.
Despite the horrible conditions there was a high school, Red Bull, competition today. While suiting up, a passerby says to me, “Is that a competition? What a shitty day to hold a competition!”. Yeah, sure is and we were about to go surf in it.
Naturally, we agreed to pick a spot far from spectators, and cameras. We started out on the right side of the beach, close to the historic rip tide side. Kev and I deem it historic after we almost lost Kev in it last year.
Later in the day we moved further south because the current drifted us to the competition area.
Kev and Jon had no problem paddling out on their boards. Jon’s planning out his entry, carefully picking out pockets and lulls to easily pass into. I was on the beach and watched Kev and Jon easily move out to the line. Patience pays off here.
Jon is looking confident paddling out on his board. We need to take him to a better beach at a good time so he can conquer Al. Kevin’s out paddling out on his Al as well. Life is good if you can say you can confidently paddle out on a classic El Porto day.
Jon Aye's Tip: My coworker told me that he waits 45 minutes before he goes in. He watches the ocean to find pockets to paddle through and waits for set of waves to die out before going in.
The next thing to keep in mind is the movement of the Sun and Moon determine the best tides.
Jon's tip to find pockets truly worked, I watched Jon and Kev find pockets today and paddle out to the line fast. I hope the boys are going to start looking to understanding the relationship of tides and interpreting the surf reports.
Bonus: Jon met the creator of Surfline. Funny thing is the surfline guy got into an accident. What happened you ask? Well, Surfline creator was driving on the freeway, and was following behind a truck with a surfboard in the back. The surfboard flew out of the truck and through surfline guy's window. Cheers to irony.
Yours truly, confidently sat on the beach, not a good day.
Kev and Jon
Great surprises welcomed. Kev and I were happy to have Jon come out to surf with us today. Jon’s putting in hard hours at work. Today Jon drove to and from San Diego for work, as a thank you they let him off early for the day.
Jon sent a text message straight from a fortune cookie, “I am down for surf”.
Today’s motley crew headed out for another classic day at El Porto:
Chop, slop, and as Ryan calls it “Mush Burgers”.
As always, conditions do not matter since growing boys are hungry.
Despite the horrible conditions there was a high school, Red Bull, competition today. While suiting up, a passerby says to me, “Is that a competition? What a shitty day to hold a competition!”. Yeah, sure is and we were about to go surf in it.
Naturally, we agreed to pick a spot far from spectators, and cameras. We started out on the right side of the beach, close to the historic rip tide side. Kev and I deem it historic after we almost lost Kev in it last year.
Later in the day we moved further south because the current drifted us to the competition area.
Kev and Jon had no problem paddling out on their boards. Jon’s planning out his entry, carefully picking out pockets and lulls to easily pass into. I was on the beach and watched Kev and Jon easily move out to the line. Patience pays off here.
Jon is looking confident paddling out on his board. We need to take him to a better beach at a good time so he can conquer Al. Kevin’s out paddling out on his Al as well. Life is good if you can say you can confidently paddle out on a classic El Porto day.
Jon Aye's Tip: My coworker told me that he waits 45 minutes before he goes in. He watches the ocean to find pockets to paddle through and waits for set of waves to die out before going in.
The next thing to keep in mind is the movement of the Sun and Moon determine the best tides.
Jon's tip to find pockets truly worked, I watched Jon and Kev find pockets today and paddle out to the line fast. I hope the boys are going to start looking to understanding the relationship of tides and interpreting the surf reports.
Bonus: Jon met the creator of Surfline. Funny thing is the surfline guy got into an accident. What happened you ask? Well, Surfline creator was driving on the freeway, and was following behind a truck with a surfboard in the back. The surfboard flew out of the truck and through surfline guy's window. Cheers to irony.
Yours truly, confidently sat on the beach, not a good day.
4.13.2009
Surf Report
Easter Sunday Bolsa Chica,CA
Randy
I held out on surf and fun to observe the most important weekend of my faith. Sunday truly was a good day.
"Put me in coach" is what a Bolsa Chica regular yelled out to his friend. I was thinking the same thing, put me in Coach and let me out there. He did.
Randy's out on his body board with the surfers, literally on the line. I was somewhere in the back where the waves break, a.k.a soup, a.k.a. wash, a.k.a no waves.
I got some confidence later and paddled out towards the actual waves and caught a few....tiny ones.
Randy put down his body board and tried surfing on the board a bit. He is now in the market for a shorter board than mine.
I watch a family from Australia or South Africa tear it up. The Dad was over 350 lbs. and was carving on his board, it was insane to watch that level of skill. His son had to be at least 12, and was carving all over my wash. Get off my wash man, leave us kooks alone. The wife was yelling at me to get out of the water. Not true.
Observed tip: I observed a old surfer paddling technique, as he passed me. haha. Well, pretty much he doesn't lift his arms overhead like a swimmer, his arms extend out and parallel to the top of the ocean.
I tried doing it and failed.
After one hour of fun, we were both out of breath or as Randy calls it, "gassed", and called it a day. On the way back up we were greeted by a lady with a bull dog.
ZJ's Surfshop
Off the lip
Randy
I held out on surf and fun to observe the most important weekend of my faith. Sunday truly was a good day.
"Put me in coach" is what a Bolsa Chica regular yelled out to his friend. I was thinking the same thing, put me in Coach and let me out there. He did.
Randy's out on his body board with the surfers, literally on the line. I was somewhere in the back where the waves break, a.k.a soup, a.k.a. wash, a.k.a no waves.
I got some confidence later and paddled out towards the actual waves and caught a few....tiny ones.
Randy put down his body board and tried surfing on the board a bit. He is now in the market for a shorter board than mine.
I watch a family from Australia or South Africa tear it up. The Dad was over 350 lbs. and was carving on his board, it was insane to watch that level of skill. His son had to be at least 12, and was carving all over my wash. Get off my wash man, leave us kooks alone. The wife was yelling at me to get out of the water. Not true.
Observed tip: I observed a old surfer paddling technique, as he passed me. haha. Well, pretty much he doesn't lift his arms overhead like a swimmer, his arms extend out and parallel to the top of the ocean.
I tried doing it and failed.
After one hour of fun, we were both out of breath or as Randy calls it, "gassed", and called it a day. On the way back up we were greeted by a lady with a bull dog.
ZJ's Surfshop
Off the lip
4.09.2009
Surf Report - Shutdown
April 8,2009 San Onofre,CA
Han Solo and J Video
The city shutdown the power to our building all day today. We were given an unexpected free day off! Seized the day with a trip to San O!
Met Blake, a friday morning regular he showed me where the best breaks were close by. Surfing at the areas Blake pointed out made a big difference on the speed of the ride and length. The costs for that is harder to paddle out and stay standing.
I had took 2 nasty nosedives that J and the family loved to watch and make fun of.
Han Solo and J Video
The city shutdown the power to our building all day today. We were given an unexpected free day off! Seized the day with a trip to San O!
Met Blake, a friday morning regular he showed me where the best breaks were close by. Surfing at the areas Blake pointed out made a big difference on the speed of the ride and length. The costs for that is harder to paddle out and stay standing.
I had took 2 nasty nosedives that J and the family loved to watch and make fun of.
Surf Report
April 6,2009 El Porto,CA
J, Kev, Ryan
Kevin and Ryan paddled out to the line fast again. I was stuck in the wash trying to get to the line. From where I was, the guys looked pro status since they were relaxing at the line.
I still am figuring out how to paddle better. I tried making mickey mouse strengthening exercises up at home. Nerd. Randy caught me on video doing it too. I will post it to embarrass myself via you tube.
Ryan and I watched Kevin take one of his waves. Kevin caught what looked like a nice 3 foot corner on his Al Merrick, not an easy feet to do boys and girls, Kevin had to master balancing his core on that slim board. Victory.
The downside is that El Porto is notorious for make waves the drop on you like an anvil, walled out (wuh oh did I just say that). Kev's sweet little corner turned into an unforgiving wall.
Ryan and I watched Kev get sucked in by the evil wave. But Kev's a brave man, he tried going off that beast.
Ryan's paddling out and surfing hard. Opening wave goes to Ryan today!
I was set up to the left and behind Ryan. From my view I could see Ryan surf on the wave from left to right. It is quite a sight to see the back side of the wave and the top of Ryan's head. Crazy man.
I kept asking Jenn to catch the opening wave and focus on Ryan. Ryan said, "Nah, no pressure".
Ryan and Kev both stuck the remainder of the day together, I was stuck in the wash and went back and forth to how J was doing.
Nothing great for me just playing in the wash again. I was able to catch wash that turned into a second wave. I couldn't cut into it though, hopefully I will learn how to this year.
Still waiting for another day at San O or a trip to Swami's
J, Kev, Ryan
Kevin and Ryan paddled out to the line fast again. I was stuck in the wash trying to get to the line. From where I was, the guys looked pro status since they were relaxing at the line.
I still am figuring out how to paddle better. I tried making mickey mouse strengthening exercises up at home. Nerd. Randy caught me on video doing it too. I will post it to embarrass myself via you tube.
Ryan and I watched Kevin take one of his waves. Kevin caught what looked like a nice 3 foot corner on his Al Merrick, not an easy feet to do boys and girls, Kevin had to master balancing his core on that slim board. Victory.
The downside is that El Porto is notorious for make waves the drop on you like an anvil, walled out (wuh oh did I just say that). Kev's sweet little corner turned into an unforgiving wall.
Ryan and I watched Kev get sucked in by the evil wave. But Kev's a brave man, he tried going off that beast.
Ryan's paddling out and surfing hard. Opening wave goes to Ryan today!
I was set up to the left and behind Ryan. From my view I could see Ryan surf on the wave from left to right. It is quite a sight to see the back side of the wave and the top of Ryan's head. Crazy man.
I kept asking Jenn to catch the opening wave and focus on Ryan. Ryan said, "Nah, no pressure".
Ryan and Kev both stuck the remainder of the day together, I was stuck in the wash and went back and forth to how J was doing.
Nothing great for me just playing in the wash again. I was able to catch wash that turned into a second wave. I couldn't cut into it though, hopefully I will learn how to this year.
Still waiting for another day at San O or a trip to Swami's
4.05.2009
Surf Report
April 4,2009 Bolsa Chica,CA
Randoi, Mikey
Randoi brought out his boogie board again. He paddled out with his grey fins and was able to pick out a nice wave going to the right. Randoi was on the face , moments ahead of the closing wave. Looked like something out of my magazines.
Mikey took out his 7" custom spyder that was given to him as a gift. The 6' beast went bareback in 55 degree water. He was going down 4 footers with no fear at all. I couldn't paddle out to see much of his action since I was again stuck trying to paddle out. Mikey ended up getting his 2 fingers cut up really bad under water. We got him patched up by the local lifeguard Jon, CSULB alumni, and decided it was best to end the day to prevent infection in Mikey's hands - but Mikey was still ready to go again. Beast.
On the way out back to Mikey's truck, Mikey was getting questions from everyone, about how we could stay in the water with just his board shorts on - the questions came from everyone including the lifeguard that said, "Man, isn't the water cold? You are brave". Mikey is a beast.
Nothing worth nothing for me again, just playing in the wash. I am having trouble paddling out, expect at San O. I will change my diet a bit and see if a boost in protein each day will help me this weekend.
My new XM leash wrapped around my neck like a noose under water today. I did a comparison of the length between the new XM leash and the old FCS leash, looks the same. Weird.
Randoi spotted a passing a sea lion. I mistook a seagull for a floating ghost.
Picked the California State Beach Annual Pass for year 2! Let us pray for a safe year.
Randoi, Mikey
Randoi brought out his boogie board again. He paddled out with his grey fins and was able to pick out a nice wave going to the right. Randoi was on the face , moments ahead of the closing wave. Looked like something out of my magazines.
Mikey took out his 7" custom spyder that was given to him as a gift. The 6' beast went bareback in 55 degree water. He was going down 4 footers with no fear at all. I couldn't paddle out to see much of his action since I was again stuck trying to paddle out. Mikey ended up getting his 2 fingers cut up really bad under water. We got him patched up by the local lifeguard Jon, CSULB alumni, and decided it was best to end the day to prevent infection in Mikey's hands - but Mikey was still ready to go again. Beast.
On the way out back to Mikey's truck, Mikey was getting questions from everyone, about how we could stay in the water with just his board shorts on - the questions came from everyone including the lifeguard that said, "Man, isn't the water cold? You are brave". Mikey is a beast.
Nothing worth nothing for me again, just playing in the wash. I am having trouble paddling out, expect at San O. I will change my diet a bit and see if a boost in protein each day will help me this weekend.
My new XM leash wrapped around my neck like a noose under water today. I did a comparison of the length between the new XM leash and the old FCS leash, looks the same. Weird.
Randoi spotted a passing a sea lion. I mistook a seagull for a floating ghost.
Picked the California State Beach Annual Pass for year 2! Let us pray for a safe year.
Surf Report
April 3,2009 - El Porto, CA
Randoi, Matteo, Nate
Took the boy and J with us. The boy made sand castles and J took video of us in choppy waves.
Too choppy for us to paddle out anywhere. A guy next to me shared in the struggle of paddling out:
"Pretty shitty day huh?"
I replied, "Yeah, I can't even stay standing in the shallow end"
"Yeah, classic Porto"
As the lifeguard at the bar told Kev last year, "Get out of Porto".
And we did. We ended up digging a 4 foot hole for the boy. The guys decided it would be funny to put me in the hole and bury me. We got that on video. No surf, but still fun.
Randoi, Matteo, Nate
Took the boy and J with us. The boy made sand castles and J took video of us in choppy waves.
Too choppy for us to paddle out anywhere. A guy next to me shared in the struggle of paddling out:
"Pretty shitty day huh?"
I replied, "Yeah, I can't even stay standing in the shallow end"
"Yeah, classic Porto"
As the lifeguard at the bar told Kev last year, "Get out of Porto".
And we did. We ended up digging a 4 foot hole for the boy. The guys decided it would be funny to put me in the hole and bury me. We got that on video. No surf, but still fun.
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