Surf Report

May 7, 2009 - El Porto, CA

Interesting day.

I was honestly pumped to see overhead waves today at El Porto. The waves were out there, but still out of reach right, for now.

What Jon said is true, the excitement of being out there fills you up and you paddle your hardest for 5 minutes, but the power of the ocean gets you. Getting to the line is a dream, for now.

We were stuck at the fight to the line.

I thought I was the only one that realized that we were all fighting it though. But the other guys saw it too.

When you're out in the water at El Porto, there's the implied saying, "Get the F out of El Porto", that rings in the back of your mind. You keep pushing though, watching the ocean for pockets, fighting the current, ducking under waves, trying to fight it. You make progress and paddle yourself out a few feet, and the ocean pushes you back a few yards. You take breaks and sit on the beach to catch your breath. From where your sitting, you watch the other guys fight, and edcuate yourself - trying to find what works and how to make your approach. You're thinking to yourself, how are we going to beat this. Naturally, frustration sets in.

But then, you get called to go out one more time.

This time, as you fight foward, you look to your left and right and you see the other guys fighting just as hard. We're all eager to get out there to the line and stand up.

It was cool to know that we all had the same goal. And then surfing is fun again. Awesome.

He has a plan.

Surf Report

Friday, May 1, 2009 - Bolsa Chica, CA

All alone and nothing good to report. Life is no fun when you do not share it.