July 21 2008, 6:00PM - El Porto, CA
I experienced my first run in with locals: Meza, Juan, and Gabrielle.
I believe I caught their attention after I celebrated catching a wave. Yes, I actually caught one - paddled and popped up - I was able to keep my balance and ride the white water back to shore.
After paddling back in, I tried catching my second wave - I ended taking a nasty nose dive (pearling).
Right before hitting the water to dig for pearls, I yelled, "Ah...shit".
When I returned from my ocean drink, I was greeted by an audience of 2 laughing men. (If you read my earlier posts of friends nose diving, I don't blame the 2 guys for laughing).
Obviously, I felt pretty stupid.
I had to suck it up and try to catch another wave. Meza decided it would be funny to surf next to me. My genetic paranoia tells me, "this gentleman wants to dance". But my heart tells me to let it go. Damn religious guilt.
So the Meza and I are waiting for waves side by side.
I feel really uneasy next to him, cause I know what he's thinking - show this kid up.
A wave comes in, I see that he has started paddling first and I (follow surf etiquette) try to paddle over the wave. Too late. The wave broke before I cleared it, and I catch the wave backwards.
I knew that Meza would try to hit me.
He did.
Meza decided to fling his board toward my face.
Nice.
I'm on the test your faith list this week aye big guy?
Instead of losing it (This week has put me on edge), my faith kicks in and tells me to drop the pride and apologize.
So I paddled out towards Meza, thought about Jesus, and did what I felt was right.
"It's cool." = Apology accepted.
Meza and I ran into the beach and shook hands.
I ended up making friends with Meza's buddy Gabrielle.
El Porto Gabrielle Tip: "This is a good day to learn. There's a swell coming in this week. We're here everyday man. Come look for us."
Hornet and the Ocean
Fear sucks ass.
Doctors surf too.
I met a surf friend, Hector, that has been surfing for 3 years. He shared a few spots with good waves:
Sunset Beach - Drive down Sunset Blvd to the end of the street
Ventura on C Street - This is Hector's "spot"
San O (Old Man's)
Time to hit the beach, beaches!
1 comment:
as for the fear of being scrutinized for doing what your faith wanted you to do, the bible says:
so you see, it isn't enough to just have faith. faith that doesn't show itself by good deeds is no faith at all - it is dead and useless. - james: 2:17
and for your trial in general:
dear brothers and sisters, whenever trouble comes your way, let it be an opportunity for joy. for when your faith is tested, your endurance has a chance to grow. so let it grow, for when your endurance is fully developed, you will be strong in character and ready for anything. - james 1:2-4
sorry. i tried to make this anonymous but blogger wouldnt let me. you know how i feel about "preaching."
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