Surf Report

August 2, 2008, 7:30AM - Bolsa Chica, CA

Henga, Jeremy, Dexter, Kev, Jon, Ryan. She was good to us today. Plenty of white water to learn on and enough space from the pro surfers for us to learn without having the fear of getting in the way. In summary, everyone had a positive surf day:

Henga rode on Morgan most of the morning. Morgan showed Henga a good time, catching waves and holding still for him to stand. That’s my girl. Henga’s looking to repair Jeremy’s long board.

Jeremy was on his 7’8” board and brought more confidence in the water. He borrowed my full suit again today (I really hope he did not commit cardinal sin and peed in my suit). Jer's on his 2 week of the GM Diet. I admire your discipline and strength man.

Dexter was impressive on the Blaster. We were side-by-side trying to catch white water. Here is an example of how that worked out:

Me: (catching the white water) Hey Dex! Where’s Dex? (Looks to the left)
Me: Dex? (Looks up)
Dex: (Standing) Hehehehe.

After finish the ride we walked back in to the ocean together. Dex smiled and said, “I was standing on the board looking for you. When I looked down, I realized I had to jump off to avoid hitting you”. My reply, “You suck!”. On a positive note, I watched Dex slide down a breaking wave with a clean style. Dexter's paddling is improving, the distance he clears with each stroke is getting further each week. Nice job.

Kev was out testing his new board. I stood witness to 2 of Kev's stands. Kev’s starting to figure out where he needs to position himself on the new board to get the most out of his paddling.

Jonnyboy came out today! Jon kept having to switch boards with everyone. He did very well for his first day out in the water. Looks like his bodyboarding experience kicked in to help him caught white water. His main concern today was learning how to stay balanced while lying on the board. At the end of the day, Jon caught a wave on Eric’s Black Diamond. Jon enjoyed the speed of the board so much that wants to ask Eric how much he would sell the board for.

Ryan showed us what’s up on his board. Ryan was either:

1. Riding a wave towards shore
2. Paddling out towards waves

Yours truly, I had to wear the bright pink spring suit again. I didn’t mind too much.

I had a fun day, plenty of stands in the white water. I even had a smooth drops down small breaking waves. I ammore comfortable with my pop ups now. I smile more too. He's glowing! My love continues to grow for you darling.

New technique, "Turning the board while sitting": I don’t know if I posted this yet, but Kev and I figured out how to sit on the board and turn a full 360 (left or right). To turn the board while sitting you need to straddle onto the board, imagine wrapping your legs around a tree, then depending on which way you want to turn use your left or right arm to pull the board towards the direction you want to turn too. While pulling kick your legs into circles to turn left or right. This helps you turn to catch a wave that you've been eying.

Shit Happens

I dropped Morgan for the first time today in the parking lot. Sad. I was focused on moving out of the way for a car that was parking. A friend, Herb, came out and heard the board hit the floor, he thought a car ran over it because of the large cracking sound. Herb was wearing a Save Trestles shirt.

Herb checked out the cracks and recommended using Solarez to patch up the cracks and dings. He offered his private stash of Solarez, but I had to refuse since I did not want to come across as a moocher.

Bolsa Chica Herb Tip’s: You should check out Sunset beach a few blocks down. It’s quiet and you feel like you have your own private beach. I just come here to meet the old friends.

My response: Another cool old surfer friend. I guess my friends and I are making memories now to meet up in the future aye?