July 29, 2008, 5:30PM - El Porto, CA
Han Solo. Today's plus side:Plenty of ridable waves. Today's downside: Plenty of 5 foot "kill new guy" waves and freak rip tide.
It was not a normal day at El Porto (well at least for the new guy).
High Tide with Rip Tides. The reports online said the water was hazardous. As the Jamaican Tarot Card reader would say, "the cards don't lie". I almost pooped in me draws, oh wait, I'm naked in my suit.
2 waves pummeled me silly. Both times I got caught in the under tow. It was scary being under water for that long.
Shaken up. I exited the water and moved further south, following a surf couple into rolling long board waves. BINGO. Caught 2 waves that broke into white water before nose diving, still going straight, i can't ride a line yet. I'm starting to lean back to help the board flush out with the water.
The waves quickly got too intense for me again, so I sat out. The girl in the surf couple was getting tossed by the 5 foot waves. It was bad.
I went home
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