Surf Report

August 4, 2008, 7:30AM - Bolsa, CA

Han Solo. Low tide and nice rolly waves = confidence booster. I took white water back to shore and landed on my bum many times.

I actually went down the face of the wave with full confidence today. I decided it time for me to eat shit while trying to actually "surf". While going down a wave the front of the board looks like it is just suspended in air. The back of the board should stick in the water if I successfully time and plant my pop up. And the board is always going to look like I'm hanging in mid air unless I catch the line.

I caught a wave going straight, the burst of speed caught me off guard, I stuck it out going down the face of the wave but fell backwards when it broke into white water.