4.13.2009

Surf Report

Easter Sunday Bolsa Chica,CA

Randy

I held out on surf and fun to observe the most important weekend of my faith. Sunday truly was a good day.

"Put me in coach" is what a Bolsa Chica regular yelled out to his friend. I was thinking the same thing, put me in Coach and let me out there. He did.

Randy's out on his body board with the surfers, literally on the line. I was somewhere in the back where the waves break, a.k.a soup, a.k.a. wash, a.k.a no waves.

I got some confidence later and paddled out towards the actual waves and caught a few....tiny ones.

Randy put down his body board and tried surfing on the board a bit. He is now in the market for a shorter board than mine.

I watch a family from Australia or South Africa tear it up. The Dad was over 350 lbs. and was carving on his board, it was insane to watch that level of skill. His son had to be at least 12, and was carving all over my wash. Get off my wash man, leave us kooks alone. The wife was yelling at me to get out of the water. Not true.

Observed tip: I observed a old surfer paddling technique, as he passed me. haha. Well, pretty much he doesn't lift his arms overhead like a swimmer, his arms extend out and parallel to the top of the ocean.

I tried doing it and failed.

After one hour of fun, we were both out of breath or as Randy calls it, "gassed", and called it a day. On the way back up we were greeted by a lady with a bull dog.

ZJ's Surfshop

Off the lip

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